The Marque
“The car that proved Japan could build a sports car — and then some.”
240Z: 0–60 mph in under 8 seconds for $3,526. The E-Type cost twice as much.The story of the S30 Z-car begins with Yutaka Katayama — "Mr K" — the Nissan executive who ran Datsun's American operation and understood that the US market wanted a Japanese sports car, not an econobox with a sporting badge. He lobbied Nissan's management for years. When the car finally arrived in October 1969, it sold 240 units in its first month. By 1972 it was the best-selling sports car in America. The Austin-Healey, the Triumph TR6, even the MGB — all outsold by a car that had been in production for three years.
The genius of the 240Z was that it wasn't a compromise. The 2.4-litre L24 inline-six was smooth, free-revving and powerful — 151 bhp, more than the TR6. The independent strut suspension gave handling that embarrassed European competitors at twice the price. The body — designed by Yoshihiko Matsuo with input from Count Albrecht Goertz, the man who penned the BMW 507 — was beautiful in a way that still reads correctly today. The 240Z was not "good for a Japanese car." It was simply good.
The 260Z followed in 1974 with a displacement increase to 2.6 litres, addressing minor power complaints and meeting tightening emissions standards. The 2+2 variant extended the wheelbase for occasional rear passengers. The 280Z of 1975 was the most significant evolution: Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection replaced the twin carburettors, federal bumpers appeared front and rear, and the car gained weight in the name of safety compliance. Purists prefer the 240Z; the 280Z is arguably the most liveable Z-car daily driver.
The Z-car market has transformed in the past decade. What sold for $3,000–$8,000 in the early 2010s now commands $20,000–$60,000 for a clean driver-quality car. Concours 240Z examples have broken $100,000. This appreciation has done two things: it has motivated proper restorations rather than quick flips, and it has made parts investment economics viable for suppliers. The result is a parts ecosystem that is, for a 50-year-old Japanese car, remarkably well-stocked.
Can’t identify the part you need? Describe it in plain English, upload a photo, or paste a part number. CarSpanner identifies Datsun Z-Car components from chassis and engine number prefixes that confirm US export vs Japanese domestic market specification — and cross-references against the specialist suppliers most likely to stock it. Find a Datsun Z Part →
Model History & Year-by-Year
240Z (1969–1973) — The Original
1969–1971: Series I. The original 240Z arrived in US markets in October 1969 as a 1970 model. Engine: L24 2,393cc twin-carburettor inline-six with round-top Hitachi SU-type carburettors (identical in action to British SU units but manufactured under licence). Power: 151 bhp SAE gross. Gearbox: 4-speed manual. Rear axle: R180 open differential, later R200. Suspension: MacPherson struts front, Chapman struts rear — fully independent. Kerb weight: approximately 2,300 lbs. The Series I is identified by its chrome bumpers, smaller nose opening, and the round-top (HIF) carburettor specification. Interior: vinyl bucket seats, four-spoke steering wheel, full instrumentation including 8,000 rpm tachometer. Production: approximately 30,000 units per year at peak US volumes.
1972–1973: Series II. Flat-top (HIF4 equivalent) carburettors replaced the round-tops. Minor emissions equipment added to later 1972 models. Revised front valance with larger opening. Stricter rear bumper mounting in anticipation of 1973 regulations. The Series II 240Z is mechanically nearly identical to the Series I but distinguished by the carburettor change and minor trim differences. 1973 was the last year of the 240Z — emission regulations in California required changes that only the larger-displacement engine could accommodate cleanly.
260Z (1974–1975) — The Bridge
The 260Z used the L26 2,565cc engine, slightly detuned to meet new emissions standards but with more torque available lower in the rev range. Power output dropped on paper (149 bhp gross) but real-world driveability improved. The US received the 260Z in both 2-seat and 2+2 (N30) configurations — the 2+2 added 12 inches to the wheelbase and occasional rear seats, making it the only S30 variant with meaningful rear accommodation. Federal bumpers appeared in 1974 — the impact-absorbing units that add visual bulk and weight. The 260Z is mechanically close to the 240Z and shares most parts; it is often overlooked by buyers focused on the 240Z designation, which means values are proportionally lower.
280Z (1975–1978) — The Refined One
1975–1976. The L28 2,753cc engine arrived alongside the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection system — a first for a Japanese sports car sold in the US at this price point. The injection system replaced the twin carburettors entirely. Power: 149 bhp (SAE net, post-1972 measurement standard). The 280Z was noticeably heavier than its predecessors — approximately 2,800 lbs — due to federal bumper systems, emissions equipment, and additional sound insulation. The R200 differential was standard. Handling remained excellent; the weight penalty was perceptible but not damaging to the driving experience.
1977–1978. Revised interior with improved seating and updated switchgear. The 1978 model year was the last of the S30 platform in the US; the 280ZX (S130) replaced it in 1979. The 1978 280Z is often considered the best-sorted of the fuel-injected cars — several seasons of refinement to the injection mapping and emissions calibration resulted in a reliable, driveable car that starts easily and runs cleanly on modern fuel. Production ended in August 1978.
Trim Levels
| Model | Years | Engine | Key Feature | Relative Value |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 240Z Series I | 1969–1971 | L24 (round-top carbs) | Original spec, lightest | Highest — $25K–$80K+ |
| 240Z Series II | 1972–1973 | L24 (flat-top carbs) | Minor updates | High — $18K–$55K+ |
| 260Z 2-seat | 1974–1975 | L26 (carbs) | Federal bumpers, L26 | Mid — $10K–$35K |
| 260Z 2+2 | 1974–1975 | L26 (carbs) | Extended wheelbase | Mid — $8K–$28K |
| 280Z 2-seat | 1975–1978 | L28 (fuel injection) | FI, heaviest spec | Mid — $10K–$35K |
| 280Z 2+2 | 1975–1978 | L28 (fuel injection) | FI + extended WB | Lower — $7K–$22K |
Engine Guide: L24 / L26 / L28
All three Z-car engines are members of the Nissan L-series inline-six family — a long-lived, robust design that shares its basic architecture across all displacements. Understanding the family is essential for parts sourcing because components interchange across the series in ways that are not always obvious.
L24 (2,393cc) — 240Z
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Bore × Stroke | 83mm × 73.7mm |
| Compression | 9.0:1 (US spec) |
| Power (US) | 151 bhp SAE gross @ 5,600 rpm |
| Torque (US) | 146 lb-ft @ 4,400 rpm |
| Fuel delivery | Twin Hitachi HIF carburettors |
| Camshaft | Single overhead cam (SOHC), chain driven |
| Head | Crossflow aluminium, hemispherical combustion chambers |
| Bottom end | Seven-bearing crankshaft, forged steel rods |
| Known weakness | Timing chain stretch (replace at rebuild); rocker arm wear |
L26 (2,565cc) — 260Z
The L26 increased bore to 86mm while retaining the 73.7mm stroke. Compression dropped slightly to manage emissions. The carburettor specification changed to Hitachi flat-top units. The L26 is mechanically very similar to the L24 and shares the head, cam, and many bottom-end components. It is less sought-after by the performance community than the L28 but is a dependable unit when maintained.
L28 (2,753cc) — 280Z
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Bore × Stroke | 86mm × 79mm |
| Compression | 8.3:1 (US spec, fuel injection) |
| Power (US) | 149 bhp SAE net @ 5,600 rpm |
| Torque (US) | 163 lb-ft @ 4,400 rpm |
| Fuel delivery | Bosch L-Jetronic multi-point injection |
| Camshaft | SOHC, chain driven (same as L24/L26) |
| Known strength | Larger displacement; excellent torque; widely used for swaps |
| Known weakness | AFM (airflow meter) wear; wiring harness degradation |
Cross-compatibility note: The L28 head bolts to the L24/L26 block with minor modification — a popular upgrade for 240Z owners wanting more displacement. The L-series bottom end is shared across the family; bearing and gasket sets are available from multiple suppliers. Timing chain kits are shared across L24/L26/L28 and widely available new.
Common Problems & Fixes
The Z-car's primary enemy is moisture. Everything else is maintenance.
Understand the rust map before you buy — structural rust changes the economics of restoration completely.1. Floorpan Rust
Problem: The passenger and driver floorpans rust from the inside out, accelerated by trapped moisture under the carpet and sound deadening. Cars from wet climates and the Rust Belt are particularly affected. Severe cases have floors that are paper-thin or absent entirely. This is load-bearing structure in a monocoque body.
Fix: Full floorpan replacement panels are in production — Arizona Z Car and ZCarSource both stock them. Professional MIG welding is required. Cost: $1,500–$4,000 in parts and labour depending on extent. This is not a job for a first-time welder; the floor must be properly tied in to the frame rails and rocker panels for structural integrity.
Prevention: Remove carpets and sound deadening on any Z you own. Let the floor breathe. Treat any surface rust immediately with phosphoric acid converter before sealing.
2. Strut Tower Rust
Problem: The front strut towers are a known failure point. Moisture enters from the engine bay and from inside the wheel arches. A rusted strut tower is dangerous — the suspension mounting point is failing. Rear strut towers also rust but are less commonly catastrophic. This is the single most important structural inspection point when buying a Z-car.
Fix: Repair panels are available from Arizona Z Car. Welded repair by a qualified fabricator. Severe cases may require full tower replacement — a major job. Cost: $500–$2,500 depending on severity. A car with collapsed strut towers may not be economically repairable.
3. Frame Rail Rust
Problem: The full-length frame rails that run the length of the car are prone to rust at the rear section where they meet the spare tyre well and rear cross-member. This is chassis structure — not cosmetic.
Fix: Repair sections available. Welded repair required. Inspect from underneath with a torch — probe suspect areas with a screwdriver. A car with compromised frame rails needs significant structural work before it is roadworthy.
4. Round-Top SU Carburettors (240Z Series I)
Problem: The Hitachi HIF carburettors on the Series I 240Z are excellent units but 50-year-old components. Common issues: worn needles and jets (rich running), leaking dashpot oil seals, corroded float chambers, and worn throttle spindles that cause air leaks and rough idle. Replacement units are essentially unavailable new; the carburettor must be rebuilt or a Series II flat-top specification substituted.
Fix: Complete rebuild kits are available from ZCarSource and Motorsport Auto. A professional carburettor rebuild by a specialist costs $200–$400 per carburettor. Synchronisation after rebuild is critical — use a Unisyn or digital tool, not guesswork. Some owners substitute SU HS4 carburettors from British cars, which are physically similar and for which parts are plentiful; the swap requires minor adaptation.
5. 280Z Fuel Injection — Airflow Meter Failure
Problem: The Bosch L-Jetronic airflow meter (AFM) contains a wiper contact on a resistive track that wears over time. Symptoms: rich running, black smoke, poor fuel economy, stumbling under acceleration. The AFM is not repairable in the field but can be rebuilt by specialists or replaced. Used AFMs are common but of unknown condition.
Fix: Rebuilt AFMs are available from Z-car specialists. New Bosch units are no longer in production; rebuilt is the reliable route. Cost: $150–$350 for a rebuilt unit. Alternatively, a Megasquirt or other aftermarket EFI system replaces the entire L-Jetronic system; popular for modified cars but reduces originality on a numbers-matching car.
6. Differential Mount Failure
Problem: The R180 and R200 differential mounts are rubber bushings that deteriorate with age. Failed mounts allow the differential to move under load, causing clonking, vibration, and accelerated driveshaft wear. Very common on unrestored cars.
Fix: Polyurethane replacement bushings are widely available and strongly recommended over OEM rubber for longevity. Cost: $50–$120 for a full differential mount kit. Replacement is straightforward with the car on a lift.
7. Rear Hatch Seal Leaks
Problem: The hatchback seal on all S30 Z-cars deteriorates and allows water ingress into the cargo area. This contributes to spare tyre well rust and, in severe cases, to frame rail rust. Many cars have had repeated water ingress for decades.
Fix: Reproduction hatch seals are available from multiple suppliers. The seal channel itself may need to be repaired or straightened before the new seal will seat correctly. Ensure the drain holes in the spare tyre well are clear before fitting new seals. Cost: $40–$80 for the seal.
8. Dashboard Cracking
Problem: The padded vinyl dashboard on all S30 Z-cars cracks with age and UV exposure. This is almost universal on unrestored cars. The original dashboard is no longer available new and NOS examples are extremely rare and expensive.
Fix: Three options: (1) A professionally recovered original dashboard using marine-grade vinyl — best result, expensive. (2) A dashboard cap (overlay) from aftermarket suppliers — cheaper, acceptable result. (3) A fibreglass replacement dashboard — popular for modified cars, loses originality. For a concours 240Z, a professional recovery or NOS unit is the only acceptable option. Budget $300–$800 for professional recovery.
9. Heater Core Failure
Problem: The heater core is a known failure point on all Z-cars — it leaks coolant into the passenger footwell, contributing to floor rust and creating fog on the windscreen. The heater core is buried in the HVAC box behind the dashboard, making replacement a several-hour job.
Fix: Replacement heater cores are available from specialists. The HVAC box must be removed — dashboard removal is required on most cars. While the dashboard is out, inspect the floors and replace any other HVAC seals and foam. Cost: $80–$200 for the core; $300–$600 in labour if professionally done.
10. Electrical Ground Failures
Problem: The Z-car uses a negative earth electrical system with ground straps at multiple points. These straps corrode, causing intermittent electrical failures: lights that flicker, gauges that read incorrectly, starter that cranks slowly. This is one of the most common causes of electrical gremlins on any unrestored Z-car.
Fix: Clean and re-make all body earth straps. Check the engine-to-body, battery negative-to-body, and dashboard earth points. Use stainless hardware when re-making connections. This is a half-day job that fixes 80% of electrical problems on an unrestored car.
11. Brake Booster Failure
Problem: The vacuum-assisted brake booster on the 280Z is age-sensitive — the internal diaphragm cracks with age, causing hard brakes and reduced stopping power. Symptoms: firm pedal, needing significantly more pressure to achieve normal deceleration. Do not drive a car with a failed brake booster.
Fix: Rebuilt brake boosters are available from Motorsport Auto and ZCarSource. New Nissan units are no longer available; rebuilt is the standard solution. Cost: $150–$300 for a rebuilt unit. Replacement is a two-hour job with basic tools.
12. Timing Chain Stretch
Problem: The L-series timing chain stretches over high mileage. Symptoms: rattling from the front of the engine on cold start, difficulty setting ignition timing correctly. A stretched chain eventually jumps teeth and destroys the engine.
Fix: Timing chain kits (chain, tensioner, guides) are widely available from Rock Auto, ZCarSource, and others. This is a significant engine job but straightforward for an experienced mechanic. Replace as part of any engine rebuild. Cost: $80–$150 for a quality kit.
OEM vs Reproduction
Nissan Heritage Parts. Nissan's Heritage Parts programme carries a selection of genuine parts for the S30 Z-car through the official Nissan Classic parts catalogue. Availability varies — mechanical items (gaskets, bearings, seals) have better coverage than body and trim. The Heritage programme is the authoritative source for Concours judging purposes. Access through Nissan dealers or directly through the Nissan Heritage Parts catalogue. Prices are premium but authenticity is guaranteed.
Quality Reproduction. The Z-car aftermarket is well-developed. ZCarSource, Motorsport Auto, and Arizona Z Car all produce or source reproduction parts to acceptable quality standards — body panels, rubber seals, weatherstripping, and mechanical items. For structural items (floor panels, sill sections, repair panels), choose a supplier with Z-car-specific experience rather than a generic sheetmetal vendor.
Rubber Seals — Be Selective. Quality varies significantly in the rubber seal market. Poor-quality reproductions (particularly from non-specialist sources) use inferior compounds that shrink, harden, or swell within a year. The Z-car community has tested most available options and forum consensus on seal quality is generally reliable. Motorsport Auto's seal kits have an established reputation; avoid anonymous suppliers on price alone.
Carburettor Components. For the round-top SU-type carburettors on the Series I 240Z, genuine SU components (needles, jets, diaphragms) from UK suppliers fit with minor adaptation. For flat-top Hitachi carburettors, dedicated rebuild kits from Z-car specialists are the right solution.
Safety-Critical Components. Brakes, wheel bearings, and steering components: use OEM, quality reproductions from established Z-car specialists, or known-brand aftermarket (Tokico, Monroe, Brembo) only. Pattern brake components from non-specialist sources have a documented record of failure on classic Japanese cars.
Parts Suppliers
The Z-car parts ecosystem is US-dominated, with strong Japanese domestic suppliers and a handful of European specialists. The following covers the essential suppliers by category.
Dedicated Z-Car Specialists (US)
| Supplier | Strength | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| ZCarSource | Comprehensive — largest US Z-car catalogue | Canby, Oregon. Body panels, mechanical, rubber, trim. The first call for most parts. Ships worldwide. |
| Motorsport Auto | 240Z specialist; extensive trim and mechanical | Southern California. Strong on interior trim, weatherstripping, carb rebuild parts. 30+ years in business. |
| Arizona Z Car | Body panels and rust repair | Phoenix, AZ. Specialises in floor panels, strut tower repair sections, sill sections. Essential for rust restoration. |
| Zcardepot | Mechanical and performance parts | Strong mechanical catalogue; good for L-series engine components, suspension, and drivetrain. |
| Zcar.com / Zcar Depot | General parts and accessories | US-based; covers 240Z through 300ZX range. |
Japanese Sources
| Supplier | Strength | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Pallnet.com | NOS and JDM surplus | Japanese domestic market NOS aggregator. Essential for unobtainable body clips, trim pieces, and electrical items. Requires some navigation of Japanese-language pages; email support is responsive. |
| Datsun Spirit | Specialist JDM supplier | Japan-based. Strong on Fairlady Z JDM-specific items and NOS stock. Ships internationally. |
| Nissan Heritage Parts | Genuine OEM NOS | Official Nissan programme. Access via Nissan dealers or Heritage catalogue. Premium pricing, guaranteed authenticity. |
| Yahoo Japan Auctions | JDM parts and NOS | Use a proxy buying service (e.g., Buyee). Enormous inventory but requires diligence on condition. |
General Suppliers (US)
| Supplier | Strength | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| RockAuto | Service parts — filters, bearings, gaskets | Best pricing on consumable mechanical parts. L-series coverage is good. No expertise, but strong pricing. |
| Summit Racing | Performance and suspension | Good for Tokico, Monroe, and KYB shock absorbers; performance brake hardware; general service items. |
| eBay | NOS, used, and trim | Search by Nissan part number for best results. Productive for electrical, trim clips, and interior pieces. Verify condition carefully. |
| Bring a Trailer | Donor cars and parts lots | Occasional parts lots and project cars. Higher quality than typical online classifieds. |
| ClassicZCars.com classifieds | Community classifieds | Forum marketplace. Knowledgeable sellers, Z-specific inventory. Best place to find hard-to-source items. |
UK and European Sources
| Supplier | Notes |
|---|---|
| Zeds Dead (UK) | UK-based Z-car specialist. Good mechanical coverage for RHD cars and general S30 parts. |
| International Z Club (UK) | Club spares scheme. Member access to club-specific parts and used inventory. |
| Car and Classic | European classifieds. Z-cars do appear; useful for European-spec cars and parts. |
SU Carburettor Parts (for 240Z)
| Supplier | Notes |
|---|---|
| Burlen Fuel Systems (UK) | Original SU carburettor manufacturer. Genuine SU rebuild kits, needles, diaphragms, and jets. Many components cross-reference to the Hitachi units on the 240Z. |
| Moss Motors | British classic specialist. SU carb rebuild kits that share components with the Hitachi HIF units on the 240Z. |
Restoration Budget Guide
The Z-car market has changed dramatically. A solid unrestored 240Z that sold for $5,000 in 2012 is now a $25,000–$35,000 car. This appreciation has made proper restorations economically viable — but also raised the stakes on getting it right.
Entry-Level: Driver-Quality Refresh ($8,000–$20,000)
Starting point: a structurally solid car needing cosmetic and mechanical attention. Assumes no major rust repair required.
- Engine refresh (gaskets, seals, carb rebuild, timing chain): $800–$2,000
- Suspension rebuild (strut inserts, springs, bushings): $600–$1,200
- Brake refresh (pads, rotors, calipers, lines): $500–$1,000
- Rubber seals and weatherstripping (full kit): $400–$800
- Interior refresh (seat recovering or replacement, carpet, headliner): $1,500–$4,000
- Paint (respray in original colour, decent quality): $3,000–$8,000
- Miscellaneous electrical, fluids, and detail: $500–$1,500
Mid-Level: Solid Restoration ($25,000–$55,000)
Starting point: a car needing floor and/or structural repair plus full cosmetic restoration. Assumes one area of significant rust repair.
- Floor replacement (panels and welding): $2,000–$5,000
- Strut tower repair (if required): $1,000–$3,000
- Full engine rebuild (machine work, bearings, gaskets, etc.): $3,000–$6,000
- All rubber, weatherstrips, seals: $800–$1,500
- Interior: $3,000–$8,000 (period-correct, quality materials)
- Paint (quality respray): $6,000–$15,000
- Chrome and brightwork: $500–$2,000
- Full suspension and brake rebuild: $1,500–$3,000
Concours: Numbers-Matching 240Z ($60,000–$120,000+)
A fully documented numbers-matching 240Z in original colour, original engine, with period-correct details. At this level, the restoration cost can approach or exceed the finished vehicle's value on anything other than an exceptionally original example. Concours 240Z restorations have commanded $100,000+ at auction.
Market Context
- $5,000–$12,000: Project cars with significant rust or non-running engines. Approach with caution; inspect thoroughly before purchase.
- $15,000–$35,000: Driver-quality restored or solid unrestored examples. The main transaction zone for most buyers.
- $35,000–$65,000: Professionally restored or exceptionally original cars.
- $65,000+: Numbers-matching 240Z in exceptional condition, or professionally restored concours-level cars.
See also: Datsun 240Z Parts Guide for detailed part-by-part sourcing advice.
Community Resources
The Z-car community is one of the best-organised in the classic Japanese car world — technically sophisticated, generous with knowledge, and active in maintaining parts supply.
Primary Forums
- ClassicZCars.com — The definitive S30 forum. Technical archives going back decades. Model-specific sub-forums for 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z. Classifieds section. The first place to search for any technical question about the S30 platform.
- HybridZ.org — Focused on engine swaps, performance modifications, and chassis work. Essential for anyone considering an L28 or V8 swap, or serious suspension upgrades. Very high technical level.
- Zcar.com — Broader Z-car community covering S30 through Z32. Useful for owners who also have later models.
UK and International
- International Z Club (UK) — uk-zcar.com. Serves British and European Z-car owners. Club spares scheme, technical resources, events.
- ZOC Japan — Japanese Z owners club. Insight into JDM market and availability.
Parts Registries and Documentation
- Z-Car Registry — Documents chassis numbers, production data, and matching numbers information. Essential for authentication of a numbers-matching car.
- Original Workshop Manual — Nissan's own service manual for the S30 is available in reprinted and digital form from several suppliers. The most reliable technical reference for original specifications.
Events
- Z Car Club of America (ZCCA) — National club with regional chapters. Annual ZCon event brings together Z-car owners from all generations.
- Vintage Motorsport events — 240Z and 260Z are SCCA Class G/H eligible and appear regularly in vintage racing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where can I find Datsun 240Z parts?
The best dedicated sources are ZCarSource (Canby, Oregon — largest US Z-car specialist), Motorsport Auto (Southern California — massive 240Z catalogue), Arizona Z Car (Phoenix — specialises in body panels and rust repair parts), and Zcardepot (excellent for mechanical components). For used and NOS parts, Pallnet.com is essential — it aggregates Japanese domestic market surplus stock and genuine Nissan Heritage parts. Datsun Spirit in Japan ships directly to the US. For common service items, RockAuto and Summit Racing are cost-effective. eBay remains productive for NOS electrical, trim, and body clips — search by Nissan part number for best results.
What are the worst rust areas on a Datsun 240Z?
The four critical zones: (1) Floorpans — rot from the inside out, often invisible until you put weight through them. (2) Strut towers — structural failure here makes the car dangerous and expensive. (3) Frame rails — rear section where they meet the spare tyre well. (4) Rear hatch surround — cosmetic but expensive. Buy a car with solid structure first.
240Z vs 260Z vs 280Z — which should I buy?
240Z is the purest and most valuable. 260Z is the transition model with slightly lower values. 280Z introduced fuel injection and is heaviest but most refined. For a driver: a solid 280Z offers the most refinement for the money. For investment or concours: 240Z only.
How much does a Datsun 240Z restoration cost?
Driver-quality restoration on a solid car: $15,000–$35,000. Professional concours restoration of a rough car: $60,000–$120,000+. Parts costs for a full rebuild typically run $8,000–$18,000. The car's value has appreciated, but restoration cost can still exceed finished value for anything but a numbers-matching 240Z.
Are Datsun 240Z parts still available?
Yes — better than most cars of this age. Body panels are in production. Mechanical components are either NOS from Japan or reproduced. The round-top SU carburettors are the trickiest; rebuilt units from specialists are the practical solution. Interior trim plastics and some electrical connectors are becoming harder to find as NOS supplies deplete.
What is the difference between a Series I and Series II 240Z?
Series I (1969–1971) has round-top SU carburettors, smaller front valance opening, and chrome bumpers. Series II (1972–1973) has flat-top carburettors, revised emissions equipment, and minor body updates. Parts interchangeability is high for mechanical components. Series I commands a premium.
What is wrong with the 280Z fuel injection?
The airflow meter (AFM) wiper contact wears, causing rich running and stumbling. Cold start injector and thermo-time switch failures cause cranking issues. Auxiliary air regulator can stick. Wiring harness deterioration causes intermittent faults. All are rebuildable or replaceable — a well-maintained 280Z runs reliably.
What community resources exist for Z-car owners?
ClassicZCars.com is the primary S30 forum with decades of technical archives. HybridZ.org for swaps and performance. Zcar.com for all-generation coverage. International Z Club (UK) for European owners. The Z-Car Registry for authentication and chassis data.
OEM vs reproduction — what to use on a Datsun Z?
Nissan Heritage Parts for genuine OEM when available. Quality reproductions from ZCarSource, Motorsport Auto, and Arizona Z Car are reliable for structural and mechanical components. Avoid pattern rubber seals from non-specialist sources — quality is inconsistent and failures are common. Safety-critical items: OEM or quality branded parts only.
How do I identify a Datsun Z part I can’t name?
Describe what you can see — where it sits on the car, what it connects to, what the failure looks like — or upload a photo directly to CarSpanner. The identification works from casting marks, part number stampings, physical shape, and the vehicle context you provide. For Datsun Z specifically: Japanese domestic market and US export spec parts differ, and chassis and engine number prefixes confirm which market spec your car is built to. No account required — open a chat and describe or upload.
Describe what you need — year, model, and part — and get expert supplier recommendations instantly.