The Identification Problem

Lucas made toggle switches for decades. They appear in MGs, Triumphs, Land Rovers, Aston Martins, and hundreds of other British cars from the 1950s through the 1970s. The switch body looks broadly similar across all of them — black Bakelite, bat-handle toggle, spade terminals on the back.

This creates a problem for E-Type owners: a switch pulled from a Triumph TR6 or a Land Rover Series IIA will look close enough to fool you at a glance. It's not the right switch for an E-Type Series 1 — different mounting depth, different toggle profile, different terminal arrangement — but the resemblance is enough that wrong parts get fitted to concours cars every year.

Beyond that, cheap reproductions entered the market in the 1980s and 1990s using modern ABS plastic instead of Bakelite. These reproductions are widely available and cheap, and they get sold as "Lucas-style toggle switches" with no specification that they are incorrect for the E-Type. A restorer who buys a switch from a generic supplier catalogue is quite likely fitting a wrong part.

The fix is straightforward once you know what to check. This guide walks through the identification sequence.

The Part: What You're Looking For

Correct Part Name

Lucas Dashboard Toggle Switch

The official Lucas description for the standard E-Type Series 1 dashboard switch is a "Lucas 2-position toggle switch" — typically part of the Lucas 88 series of dashboard-mounted switches used across Jaguar and other British manufacturers throughout the 1960s.

Alternative Names
  • Fascia switch
  • Dash switch
  • Panel toggle switch
  • Lucas toggle (common shorthand)
  • Lucas bat-handle switch
Vehicle Application
  • Jaguar E-Type Series 1, 1961–1968
  • 3.8-litre (1961–1964)
  • 4.2-litre (1964–1968)
  • Roadster, fixed-head coupé, and 2+2
  • Also used in other Lucas-equipped British cars of the same era — specification matters, not just the part number
Where on the Vehicle

Dashboard fascia, toggle-mounting holes in the switch panel — typically a rectangular cutout with a specific depth. The switch sits flush with the dashboard face and is retained by a metal flange with screw holes.

How to Identify It

Identification Criteria — What to Check

Visual Identification

  • Bakelite body: The original Lucas switches for the E-Type Series 1 used a black Bakelite thermosetting resin body. This has a slightly matte, granular surface — not smooth or glossy. Over 60 years of age, the Bakelite may show slight surface oxidation or a faint patina but remains structurally intact. If the body is smooth, shiny, and light, it is a reproduction made from modern ABS or polystyrene plastic.
  • Lucas part number stamping: The metal mounting flange on the underside of the switch carries a stamped Lucas part number. This is machine-pressed into the metal and is legible with cleaning. The number follows a format (two digits, letter, number) and corresponds to a specific switch type. If the number has been painted over, ground off, or is absent entirely, treat it with suspicion.
  • Toggle profile: The original Lucas bat-handle toggle has a flat bar with a distinctive knurled grip section. The throw is approximately 30 degrees each side of vertical centre. The toggle mechanism has a positive detent — a distinct, spring-loaded click at each position.
  • Mounting flange: The metal flange is consistent in thickness and hole spacing across the Lucas 88 series switches. It screws into the dashboard panel with two fixings. Reproduction switches sometimes have a slightly thinner or differently shaped flange.

Common Misidentifications

  • Reproduction ABS switches: The most common incorrect part. They look similar from a distance but the body material, weight, and toggle feel are wrong. The ABS plastic is noticeably lighter than Bakelite.
  • Switches from other Lucas-equipped vehicles: MGs, Triumphs, Land Rovers, and Aston Martins used Lucas switches in the same era. Some have identical bodies and differing internals or terminal configurations. For a numbers-matching E-Type, only the correct Lucas number for the E-Type application is the right switch.
  • Re-chromed or replated original switches: These retain the correct body but may have had the toggle chrome replated in modern bright chrome rather than the original satin or matte chrome finish. Not incorrect in the same way as reproductions, but a tell for close inspection.

Original vs. Replacement — How to Tell

  • Apply pressure to the body with a fingernail: Bakelite does not flex or give; ABS plastic does.
  • Run a fingernail across the body surface: Bakelite feels slightly rough and granular; modern plastic is smooth.
  • Check the toggle detent: the original Lucas spring mechanism produces a clear, positive click. Cheap reproductions often have a mushy, non-committal feel.
  • Weigh the switch if you have a scale: an original Bakelite switch is noticeably heavier than a plastic reproduction of the same size.
  • Inspect the rear terminals: original switches have brass or copper-alloy spade terminals with consistent spacing. Reproduction terminals are often steel-plated and may have a different pitch.

Markings and Stampings

The tell on a genuine Lucas toggle switch is the Bakelite. It has a particular density to it — slightly warm to the touch, a dull finish that doesn't quite catch the light the way modern plastic does. Reproduction switches have improved considerably but the surface still reads differently under a workshop light. Hold the switch at an angle and look at the toggle itself — on originals the pivot point shows wear patterns consistent with forty-plus years of use. A reproduction on a car that's supposedly unrestored should raise a question.

The date code is the other thing worth checking. Lucas stamped a date code on the rear face of most switches from this period — format is a letter followed by two digits, denoting the week and year of manufacture. For a Series 1 car built between 1961 and 1968, the switch date codes should precede or closely match the car's build date. A switch dated 1973 on a 1965 car has been replaced. That's not a problem on a driver-quality restoration, but it matters for concours.

Decision Tree

Work through these checks in order. If you reach a conclusion, stop there — the earlier checks are definitive.

If the switch body is smooth, glossy, and light — and does not feel granular under a fingernail
This is a modern ABS reproduction. Not original Lucas. Do not buy for a concours car.
If the switch body is Bakelite (matte, slightly rough surface, does not flex under pressure)
Likely original Lucas. Proceed to Step 3.
If the mounting flange has a machine-stamped Lucas part number in the correct format
Correct. Verify the number is for an E-Type application (not a TR6 or Land Rover). Proceed to Step 4.
If the number is absent, painted over, or ground off
Suspicious. Either a stripped part or an attempt to hide a non-matching number. Reject for a numbers-matching restoration.
If the toggle throw has a positive, spring-loaded detent click at each position
Correct internal mechanism. For sourcing, prefer original over reproduction.
If the toggle feels mushy, non-committal, or returns slowly to centre
Worn or incorrect mechanism. Rebuilt original switches are available — do not fit a cheap reproduction as a substitute.

What Vehicles Does This Fit?

Vehicle Years Application
Jaguar E-Type Series 1 1961–1968 Dashboard fascia, all switch functions
Jaguar XK (120/140/150) 1948–1961 Similar Lucas switches; verify specific series before substituting
Jaguar Mk II 1959–1967 Similar era Lucas switches; verify part number matches

For the full Jaguar E-Type marque overview — including Series 2 and Series 3 variants, and a wider parts sourcing guide — see the Jaguar E-Type Restoration Parts Guide.

For a comparison of OEM versus NOS parts sourcing across all classic car categories, see the OEM vs NOS vs Reproduction guide.

Sourcing Guidance

Affiliate disclosure: CarSpanner may earn a commission when you buy through supplier links on this page. This does not affect our editorial recommendations — we list suppliers based on their usefulness, not commission. Full disclosure →

Note: This is not a safety-critical part. The dashboard switch controls non-essential functions (lights, wipers, choke). Safety-hard-rule pattern parts warnings do not apply here. The sourcing decision is about correctness and appearance, not fire risk.

Sourcing Options

OEM Availability

New-old-stock (NOS) Lucas toggle switches for the E-Type Series 1 appear regularly on eBay Motors. Filter for condition "New Old Stock" and search using the Lucas part number format once you have confirmed the correct number for your application. NOS is the preferred option for concours-standard restorations.

Quality Reproduction

Quality reproductions that correctly replicate the Bakelite body and original switch mechanism are available from specialist Lucas electrical suppliers. The critical thing to verify before purchasing is that the supplier specifies the reproduction is suitable for the E-Type Series 1 — generic "Lucas-style toggle switch" listings often refer to the wrong body type and mounting depth.

Sourcing Routes

  • eBay Motors (NOS): The most productive source for genuine NOS Lucas switches. Search using the part number. Check seller feedback carefully — NOS means genuinely unused old stock, not relabelled new parts. Search on eBay Motors →
  • SNG Barratt: Carries a range of Lucas-style switches and electrical components for the E-Type. Start here when looking for reproductions — SNG Barratt E-Type electrical →
  • Specialist Lucas electrical suppliers: Independent suppliers who focus on Lucas systems for British classics carry NOS and correct-grade reproduction switches. Worth searching for "Lucas switch" with your specific part number.
  • JCNA classifieds and Jaguar Enthusiasts' Club forums: E-Type owner forums have classified sections where NOS parts are sold from personal collections. Often the best source for the right part at a fair price.

Rebuilding vs. Replacing

If your original switch has correct body and toggle but worn internals, Lucas switch rebuild kits are available. These kits contain new springs, contacts, and terminals. A rebuilt original switch is better than a cheap reproduction — the body, weight, and feel will be correct. Rebuilding requires opening the switch body and cleaning the contacts, which is straightforward with the right kit.

Geoff's Verdict

For a concours Series 1, you need the original switches or correctly date-coded NOS. There's no way around it — judges know what they're looking at. SNG Barratt occasionally surfaces NOS Lucas switches and it's worth checking their stock before assuming they're unobtainable. Specialist Lucas electrical suppliers are the other route — search for Lucas electrical NOS rather than E-Type specific, and you'll find more.

For a driver-quality car, quality reproduction switches from a specialist are perfectly acceptable. The action is slightly different from original but nobody driving the car will notice. Where I'd draw the line is fitting cheap pattern switches — the toggle geometry on some of them is slightly wrong and they don't sit flush in the dashboard aperture. That looks worse than an honest reproduction.

One thing worth doing regardless of restoration standard: if the existing switches work, clean the contacts before replacing them. Lucas switches from this period are rebuildable and a working original is always preferable to a replacement. A small flat-bladed screwdriver and some contact cleaner will sort most Lucas toggle switch failures.