OEM — Original Equipment Manufacturer
OEM refers to parts made by or directly sourced by the vehicle’s original manufacturer. When your 1967 MG Midget left the Abingdon factory, every bolt, seal, and trim piece was either produced by BMC or supplied by a contracted component manufacturer to BMC’s exact specification. Those are OEM parts.
The challenge for classic car restorers is straightforward: most OEM parts for vehicles built forty, fifty, or sixty years ago are no longer in production. BMC is gone. Lucas has changed beyond recognition. Girling was absorbed into TRW. The original part numbers survive in parts books and microfiche archives, but the parts themselves stopped rolling off assembly lines decades ago.
What remains is the secondary market: New Old Stock (NOS), high-quality reproductions made to the original specification, or reconditioned original components.
The loose use of “OEM” by sellers
Online marketplaces have blurred the term considerably. You will see “OEM,” “OEM quality,” and “OEM spec” used interchangeably by sellers to describe parts that have never been near an original manufacturer. When a listing says “OEM quality,” it usually means reproduction — the seller is claiming (not proving) that their part matches the original specification. It carries no guarantee and no certification.
When you need to know the truth, ask directly: is this an original part from original production, or a modern reproduction? For concours judging and numbers-matching restorations, the answer changes everything.
NOS — New Old Stock
New Old Stock is exactly what the name suggests: original parts, manufactured during the vehicle’s production run, that were never sold or fitted. They have sat in a warehouse, a parts dealer’s stockroom, or a service centre’s inventory — unopened, in original packaging, sometimes with the original price ticket still attached.
NOS is the holy grail for concours restorers. If a JCNA or similar club judge is comparing two 1969 Camaros, the one with genuine NOS trim clips still in period-correct boxes will score higher than the one fitted with modern reproduction clips — regardless of how good the reproductions look. For a numbers-matching restoration being built to museum standard, NOS is the target for every visible and verifiable part.
Supply, scarcity, and price
The supply of NOS is finite and shrinking. Every NOS part that gets used, damaged, or discarded is one less in the world — and the number was never large to begin with. This scarcity drives significant price premiums. A NOS oil seal that sold for a few shillings in 1965 might fetch £40 today. Correct NOS trim pieces for a Corvette Stingray or an early E-Type can run into hundreds of pounds for a single item. If you need a complete NOS set of something, expect to spend accordingly.
Where to find genuine NOS
- Hemmings classifieds and eBay Motors — the largest public marketplaces; search by exact part number and verify packaging authenticity before buying
- Marque-specific car clubs — members frequently hold or know of NOS inventory acquired from dealerships that closed, often never advertised publicly
- Estate sales and specialist auctions — old service station and dealership stocks surface periodically, particularly in Southern California, the UK Midlands, and the American South
- Reputable specialist suppliers — SNG Barratt, Moss Motors, and Rimmer Bros occasionally carry genuine NOS stock alongside reproductions; they will say clearly which is which
Quality Reproduction
For most restoration projects, quality reproduction parts are the practical, sensible, and entirely correct answer.
A quality reproduction part is a modern manufacture designed to match the original specification as closely as possible — same dimensions, same materials (or better), same function. The best reproduction suppliers reverse-engineer from original factory drawings, measure and test against surviving original components, and verify fit on correct vehicles before releasing a part to market.
Why “quality” is doing real work in that phrase
Not all reproductions are created equal. The market is full of parts that look correct and aren’t — wrong metallurgy in brake components, incorrect thread pitches in body hardware, rubber compounds that perish in five years instead of thirty. Buying a reproduction part is not the same as buying a quality reproduction part from a supplier with a known track record.
The suppliers who do this properly are well established:
- Moss Motors — MG, Austin-Healey, Triumph, and Jaguar reproductions; among the most trusted in the British classic community
- National Parts Depot (NPD) — Ford Mustang and GM A-body; known for dimensional accuracy and period-correct details
- SNG Barratt — Jaguar specialist; particularly strong on body panels, mechanical components, and trim
- Classic Industries — GM muscle car interiors and body panels; the reference source for Camaro, Chevelle, and Impala
- Rimmer Bros — Triumph and Rover range; extensive catalogue, consistent quality
When a first-time restorer asks what to use for most parts on most classics, the answer is quality reproduction from one of these suppliers. Less expensive than NOS, readily available, and in many cases dimensionally superior to the original because modern tooling and materials have improved.
Pattern Parts — What They Are and Why They Matter
Pattern parts are the cheap end of the aftermarket: generic copies made to approximate specifications, typically manufactured with minimal quality control and sold primarily on price. They exist because they are profitable — a part that looks like the right component at 60% of the cost of a quality reproduction will always find buyers.
For purely cosmetic applications — a non-structural chrome badge, an interior carpet section, a trim piece that carries no load — pattern parts can be acceptable. The fitment may be imprecise and the materials may differ from original, but the consequences of failure are aesthetic rather than mechanical.
For mechanical and safety-critical components, the calculation changes entirely.
- Brakes — discs, drums, pads, calipers, master cylinders, wheel cylinders, hoses, and lines
- Steering — rack and pinion, column components, tie rod ends, ball joints, and idler arms
- Suspension — springs, dampers, wishbones, bushings, and anti-roll bar components
- Fuel system — tanks, lines, pumps, and carburettor components
The metallurgy of a pattern brake disc can cause premature heat cracking under hard use. A pattern brake hose can delaminate internally, blocking fluid flow or failing completely. Pattern suspension components carrying incorrect loads can fracture without warning. These are not abstract engineering concerns — they are documented causes of accidents.
A quality reproduction brake caliper costs marginally more than a pattern equivalent. On a vehicle that may have taken years and significant investment to restore, the difference is irrelevant. Use quality reproduction or NOS for anything that keeps the car on the road and the driver alive.
Choosing the Right Part
The right part type depends on what you’re building and what you’re building it for. Use this as a starting point:
| Restoration goal | Recommended part type |
|---|---|
| Concours / judged show car | NOS first; quality reproduction if NOS is unavailable or cost-prohibitive |
| Driver-quality show car | Quality reproduction throughout |
| Weekend driver / daily driver | Quality reproduction throughout |
| Safety-critical components — any build, any goal | NOS or quality reproduction only. Never pattern parts. |
| Non-structural cosmetics (trim, badges) | Quality reproduction; pattern acceptable where fit is confirmed |
If you’re unsure which category a specific part falls into, ask CarSpanner. Describe the part, give us the year, make, and model, and we’ll tell you exactly what to look for and where to find it.